Dutch designer Pauline van Dongen believes that fashion is in desperate need of a revolution. In her opinion, the fashion industry is too concerned about production inventory, and no one has enough time to rethink the process of making clothes. This is why van Dongen uses emerging technology to make bold designs and productions on her outfits.

Van Dongen recently tried 3D printing technology to see if this technology can make clothing fit and respond when people move. She elaborated on her own experiments on 3D printing fashion at this year's Southwest-South Conference and said that there is still a lot to do from the 3D printed clothing market. But she hopes that her experiments will inspire other designers to explore.

Below is a demo of Van Dongen's latest concepts.

Sleeve design

An Dongen's first attempt to create a fashion with 3D printing technology is simple: she printed a sleeve. But she didn't want a sleeve that only covered, so she designed the sleeve in a stretchable shape. Van Dongen printed the sleeve with an Objet Connex multi-material printer. The sleeve is made of a resilient, rubber-like material and a strong plastic.

The effect of wearing a sleeve

Van Dongen collaborated with Paola Tognazzi and Ralph Zoontjens on the effect of wearing a sleeve. She wanted the sleeve to be like a human movement, so she put a sensor on the human arm to record the movement of the person. Later, she used the Grasshopper software to simulate how the cuff would react after wearing a sleeve on the computer. The end result is a sleeve that visually presents a variety of gestures that change shape based on the person's movement. For example, when the wearer's arm is lowered, the sleeves are either expanded or contracted (as shown) ).

Elastic structure

Van Dongen's second 3D printing project, Ruff, is working with architect Behnaz Farahi. They want to use 3D printing technology to create a dynamic, flexible shape that moves around the body. However, the materials used for 3D printing are usually very stiff and can easily break. To solve this problem, van Dongen and Farahi tried to print multiple spring-like plastic shapes. These structures are more durable and flexible.

Responsive wearable clothing

Van Dongen and Farahi produced this “responsive wearable outfit” by working with 3D Systems' Los Angeles studio. The spring-loaded structure of the garment wraps around the body, giving the impression that a deep-sea coral moves through the sea.

Science behind sports

In order to make this dress move, van Dongen installed a spring made of nickel-titanium in the clothing. Nitinol has the characteristics of shape memory. At a certain temperature, the Nitinol will deform, but when heated to the "deformation temperature", it will return to its original state. By attaching Nitinol springs and small wires, van Dongen can expand or contract the spring by adjusting the temperature. This effect is like having a "breathing organism" attached to the wearer.

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